
Mfangano Island, Lake
Victoria, Kenya
THE PEOPLE

Suba District is
inhabited by the Abasuba, a Bantu people believed to have originally
migrated from Central Africa centuries ago. The name “Suba” means “the
people who are always wandering”. As a result of assimilation to and
intermarriage with the Luo, the dominant people of the region, the Suba
culture has come under pressure and the language is now listed in
UNESCO’s
Red Book of endangered languages (2003).
The rock art, however, pre-dates these migrations and is thought to be
the work of ancestral ancient hunter gatherer people sometimes known as
Twa. The Abasuba long ago embraced the art as part of their own ancient
heritage.
The Abasuba community is divided into 14 clans, each having different
ritual responsibilities, such as rain-making or ritual cleansing. Each
clan has its own special relationship with the others. In Suba culture,
male circumcision is important and only those circumcised were allowed
to go to war or to enter sacred sites.
The majority of Suba make their living along the shore from fishing;
the catch is consumed locally and exported to major towns in Kenya and
also to Europe. Further inland they are agriculturalists; Suba District
is also well known for its fruit production, especially oranges and
bananas.
Living along
the water, with a developed system of water transport, the
Suba people are highly mobile and will often move throughout the Lake
Victoria region, engaging fishing and trade.
Despite its
remote location, Suba is changing and adapting to modern
technologies. Iron-sheet roofs are replacing the traditional thatch,
which is more difficult to maintain and for which it is increasingly
difficult to find sufficient grass. While television and mobile phones
are common in most of Suba District, many places along the mainland
shoreline can still only be reached by boat.