Mfangano Island, Lake
Victoria, Kenya
Sunset over Nzenze Island as seen from Mfangano
The
Sacred Island of Nzenze
The Wasamo clan are
the custodians of Nzenze Island (also called the Moving Island) which
is still used for rain-making ceremonies. It is no coincidence that the
island is situated directly opposite Mawanga Cave, which was until
recent times a famous rain-making site. This island is said to have
followed the Wasamo clan in their migration from Uganda and will
continue to follow them wherever they go. Only clan members are allowed
to land on the island, and if others land they meet with unexpected
obstacles – they may even find their way blocked by aggressive thorns
which disappear as they turn for home! While nobody is allowed to
live on Nzenze Island, members of the Wasamo clan have special
cultivated plots there.
Another story holds
that long ago the Wasamo elders realised that the island was directly
opposite their sacred cave, Mawanga, and thus the energy from the cave
was naturally projected across the waters to the island. In the old
days it was said in times of drought and famine on Mfangano, they knew
they would always be able to find food on Nzenze, which means ‘the
Grandfather’ (i.e. Wasamo himself, the original person who was making
rain at that place). On the peak of Nzenze it was said there was a
shrine guarded by a large python. In times of drought, goats or other
animals were sacrificed and given to the python. Typically, it was said
that when there was no food anywhere else one could go to Nzenze, which
was then just bush, and would soon come across an exceptionally large
goat which would be enough to feed an entire village. Nzenze’s
reputation as the emergency granary of the area continues. As the
island is not frequently visited, it is one of the few remaining places
in Suba where hippos and crocodiles are still seen.
website
& images ©
2008 TARA